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Keyless Entry Factory Code |
The
factory keyless entry code for your vehicle was placed on
a small decal or sticker on your passenger side trunk lid
hinge, the keyless module itself whick is located inside
the drivers side rear quarter behind the carpet liner and
inside a black tray that is attached to the inner quarter
panel, and the warranty card you got with the car when
new. If you still have these, it may be a good idea to
remove or cover the sticker from your trunk hinge if it
is still there to prevent anyone from viewing your
factory code without your knowledge. |
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| The following information
has been verified with my 1990 35th Anniversary
Thunderbird as well as two other SuperCoupes. This information can be helpful to you if: 1. You have lost or otherwise are
not sure of the factory code......or |
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| The factory
keyless entry codes are determined by the configuration
of five resistors, hardwired into each car's keyless
entry computer module. The module is mounted on a black
package tray, which can be located in the trunk
compartment, behind the carpet liner on the driver's side
rear quarter panel inner wall. Once you have pulled away
the carpet liner, you will see the package tray mounted
vertically and fastened to the inner wall by two round
pull clips at the rear of the tray, with the front of the
tray having a tab which slips into an opening in the
inner wall. To remove the keyless entry module, pull to
unlatch the two round clips at the rear of the tray and
then carefully pull the tray back towards you until the
tab has cleared it's retaining slot. You can now pull the
tray away from the inner wall far enough to flip it over,
exposing the keyless entry module and several other
components as well. The keyless entry module is a black
rectangular plastic box with two connectors plugged into
it and is held in place towards the front of the tray by
three plastic holders that are part of the tray. With
your finger or thumb, gently push the holders away from
the module and they will release the module. It doesn't
take much pressure to get the clips to release the
module. Using a small flat blade screwdriver, gently pry
the locking clips on the connectors up and the connectors
can then be pulled away from the module. Care should be
taken when removing the connectors so their locking clips
are not accidentally broken off. Only pry up as far as is
necessary to clear the tab they clip over. When pulling
the connector from the module, grip the connector itself,
not the wires, and pull straight away from the module
with a slight side to side wiggling motion. The two
connectors are made so that you cannot inadvertently swap
them when you reinstall the module. When reinstalling the
connectors, push them straight onto the module until the
lock clip snaps into place, then gently snap the module
back onto the component tray. To disassemble the module, carefully insert
a feeler gauge between the module's end cap and case
wall, at the point where the clips retain the housing's
end cap. You need to gently pry the outer wall of the
housing up and away from the clips and gently pull that
side of the module's end cap just to the point where the
clips have released, turn the module over and repeat the
procedure for the other two remaining retaining clips.
You could also use a thin knife blade or screwdriver to
accomplish this if your careful not to allow the blade to
slip off the module and into your steering hand. With the
lock tabs free, the end cap will pull away and the two
circuit board sections where the connectors plug onto the
module will remain within the case of the module. These
two circuit boards are connected to each by a ribbon
cable and two white plastic shafts that clip through
holes on each of the circuit boards. Gently pull the
circuit boards out of their retaining grooves within the
housing, pulling on each one a little bit at a time. Note:
They must be slipped out of the housing together.
Once the boards are free, you will need to separate them
by squeezing the spear like tabs at one end of each white
plastic stand off which holds them together. You can then
separate the boards by opening them like a book, hinging
on the ribbon cable. Look at the circuit board that has
the round red electrical component soldered to the board
and nearby you will see a series of five resistors with
long connections soldered next to each other. These are
the "hardwired" components that "set"
the factory keyless entry code. The particular
connections of the resistors are what determines the
factory code for your keyless entry keypad. You will find
five resistors and not ten because Ford used five
"signals" to correspond to the ten numbers 0
through 9. The numbers are set in pairs, meaning 1/2 is
one connection, 3/4 is another, 5/6 is another, 7/8 is
another, and 9/0 is another. If the two numbers, 5 and 6,
are together in a code, then you just push that button
marked 5/6 two times. The numbers may be different for
you but the computer only knows that signal is coming
from that connection twice. The diagram below (not to
scale) shows the arrangement of the resistors. The
connections are not marked with the numbers but the
diagram is labeled for you to know which connections
correspond to what numbers. |
| (diagram: courtesy of Ed Wick.) |
I hope this information is helpful to you if you don't know the code of your car or a car you have purchased. |
| For those of you who wish to change your vehicle's Keyless Entry Code, it is recommended that you obtain a second module to experiment with. New units are available from Ford, or, you can most likely save time and money by finding another one used from an individual or an auto dismantler. To change the code, you only need the control module and not the door keypad assembly. This way, if you should decide to rearrange the hardwiring by de-soldering and then re-positioning the resistors and obtain your own preferred code sequence, you can "experiment" or learn on the second module. Then, after your successful modifications are performed, simply plug it in and try your new code. Please be sure your only set of keys are not locked inside the vehicle should the new code fail to work. Also, by working with a second module, your vehicle will remain operational while you modify the second unit and you can store the original unit away for future use or re-installation if you should desire. |
| My sincerest thanks to Ed Wick for his contributions to the Registry for this article. It's much appreciated. |
| Disclaimer: This article is for personal use only and for assisting owners in maintaining their vehicle. No publishing or reprinting is allowed unless by permission by the author of this article. The author is not responsible for any damage that occurs from the use of this information. |